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ELEMENTARY 
WOODWORKING PROJECTS 

HAROLD R. WISE 




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ELEMENTARY 
WOODWORKING PROJECTS 

HAROLD R. WISE 

INSTRUCTOR MANUAL ARTS, BOSTON PUBLIC SCHOOLS 

Instructor in Cabinet Making, South Boston School of Arts 




THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS 
PEORIA, ILLINOIS 



Copyright 1922 

Harold R. Wise 

12 D 11 



©CI.A68G650 

Printed in the United States of An 

NO. 






FOREWORD 



/ "l r% HIS book is intended for use in the upper 
grammar grades where bench work in wood 
is first introduced to the pupils. 

The aim has been to present a collection of 
working drawings of useful projects that are 
suitable for beginners of the age found in these 
grades. Not all of the projects can be called 
"new," but all have been successfully worked 
out at the bench by grammar grade pupils. 

The writer wishes this to be recognized as a 
collection of drawings, not a course or series. 
No effort has been made to present a sequence 
of projects or exercises. That is the job of the 
individual teacher. He should be the best 
judge of what will lead his pupils to do their 
best work. He should be capable of selecting 



the project that involves such exercises in wood- 
working as his pupils are prepared to do in a 
workmanlike manner. 

It is not the intention that the notes that 
accompany each working drawing are to be 
substituted for the usual demonstration and 
instruction by the teacher. While in most 
cases the notes outline the steps to be taken, 
their purpose is to be helpful, to clinch the 
teacher's demonstration and instruction, and to 
stimulate the pupil to do a little planning and 
thinking for himself. Nearly every project — 
even those most simple in character offer pos- 
sibilities for modification by the pupil without 
upsetting the teacher's plan of presentation of 
the technical part of the work. 



CONTENTS 



I Planing to Dimensions. . . 
Steps in Planing 
First Method 
Second Method 
Third Method 
Fourth Method 
Fifth Method 
Sixth Method 

II Narrow Surface Planing. 

* I Pencil Pointer 
2 Key Board 

* 3 Knife Strop 

* 4 Fish-line Reel 

* 5 Trellis 

* 6 Pail Stand 

* 7 Dish Drainer 
8 Back Rest 

g Sewing Stand 

1 1 1 Broad Surface Planing. . . 
*io Cutting Board 
*i I Writing Board 
*i2 Foot Stool 

13 Miter Bench Hook 
+ 14 Boot Blacking Stand 



6 IV Boring 44 

1 5 Broom Holder 
16 Pen and Pencil Holder 
"17 Tooth Brush Rack 

18 Clothes-line Reel 

19 Towel Stand 

20 Trousers Hanger 

J 4 V Oblique Planing 56 

21 Door Stop 

22 Laundry Stick 
*23 Clock Shelf 

24 Shoe-polishing Stand 

25 Towel Rack 

VI Construction — Boxes, etc 67 

*26 Telephone Bracket 
32 27 Milk Bottle Holder 

28 Tray for Table Silver 

29 Poultry Feeder 

30 Letter Tray 

31 Bird Feeding Shelf 
*32 Sewing Stand 



CONTENTS 



VII Modelling 82 * 4 3 Pen and Pencil Rest 

* «. . . c» 1 *44 Ink Stand and Stationery Holder 

*33 Match Striker ' 

34 Suit Hanger IX Joints 108 

•35 Rolling Blotter • V W^re Paper Basket, (Glue) 

* 3 6 Pen and Ink Stand , 6 Book s t (Dado) 

* 3 l \*?V ^ *47 Hot Dish Rest, (Cross lap) 

38 [nk Stand 4 g Cord W i n der, (Cross lap) 

39 JSecktie Hack 49 skirt Marker> (Mortise and Tenon) 

40 Whisk Broom Holder * co g , Ree , (Housed Dado) 
*4l Book Stall " r 

ttttt /-> Note: The projects marked (*) are such as 

Vlll UOUGING I02 encourage the individual to plan or choose 

42 Safety Match-Box Stand for himself suitable construction or contour. 



I. PLANING TO DIMENSIONS 



There are several ways of planing the pieces 
of wood contained in a project. When the 
project is a simple one, there are two common 
sets of steps that may be used. The first is 
used when the wood for the project is fur- 
nished mill-planed to the finished thickness. 
The second is used when the wood is furnished 
thicker than the finished dimension. The first 
set of steps is generally used in most elementary 
work, on simple objects. It is also followed by 
the workman who is making very large objects, 
such as bookcases, large cabinets, etc., when the 
large surfaces are planed very carefully by 
machinery to save labor. In such large pro- 
jects the joints and intricate work are finished 
before the surfaces are dressed off by hand. In 
no case is it considered desirable from the view- 
point of a skilled workman to allow machine 
marks to show on the finished article, whether 
it is large or small. If one will examine furni- 
ture of various types, it will be found that only 
that which is very inferior shows any machine 
marks on the surfaces. 



The second set of steps in planing is the one 
used most often in the manual training shop, 
or where very fine, close and accurate work is 
to be done. Seldom is a piece of wood procured 
that is perfectly flat or straight across, as it is 
"subject to change without notice" after it 
leaves the sawmill, due to changes in tempera- 
ture, dampness, etc. To plane the broad sur- 
faces flat and true would tend to make the 
board too thin. Therefore the stock should be 
procured thicker than the finished size is to be. 
The usual allowance for planing, as made by 
careful workmen, is: Y%' in thickness, %" in 
width, J 2" in length. 

The two common sets of steps in planing 
follow in "Steps in Planing," (First Method) 
and (Second Method). 

When a number of pieces are to be made that 
have several dimensions in common, it is more 
economical to plane the pieces in such a way 
as to save time, labor, and material. There are 
several cases where this is done to advantage, and 
they are outlined in plates C, D, E, and F. 



PLANING TO DIMENSIONS 

STEPS IN PLANING 
A. (First Method) 

Planing in two dimensions, or, steps in planing when the wood is of the required thickness. 

i. Mark the hollow, or concave side of the board with one straight line, thus: / Call this 
the "working face." 

2. Plane the better edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face ( ). Mark 

with two lines, thus: // 
Call this the "working edge." 

3. Gage the width from the working edge (//), and plane to the line. 

4. Plane the better end square to the working face ( ) and the working edge (//). 

5. Mark off the length from the finished end, saw next to the line, and plane the second end 

square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//). 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



STEPS IN PLANING 

B. (Second Method) 

Planing in three dimensions, or steps to be taken when the wood is thicker than the 
required dimensions. 

1. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark thus: / 
Call this the "working face." 

2. Plane the better edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/). Mark //. 
Call this the "working edge." 

3. Gage the width from the working edge (//) and plane to the line. 

4. Gage the thickness from the working face (/) and plane to the line. 

5. Plane the better end square to the working face (/) and to the working edge (//). 

6. Mark off the length from the finished end, saw next to the lines to remove the waste 
wood, and plane the second end square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//). 

Note: When the wood is narrow the end planing may be done with the aid of the bench 
hook, using the block plane. 

When the wood is 4" wide, or wider, it is better to hold it end up in the vise. 

When the board is very wide, 8" or more, the smoothing plane or the jack plane will be 
used to better advantage than the block plane for end planing. 

In any case, plane only part way across the end from each edge. Planing all the way 
across the end of a piece of wood causes the corners to be split off. 



PLANING TO DIMENSIONS 



STEPS IN PLANING 

C. (Third Method) 

When there are two long pieces of the same length, width, and thickness, or of the same 
length and thickness. 

i. Procure a piece of stock wider than the combined width of the two pieces. 

2. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark / 
Call this the "working face." 

3. Plane both edges straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/). Mark both 

of these edges //. They are the working edges — one for each piece. 

4. Gage the thickness from the working face ( ), and plane to the line. 

5. Gage the width of each piece from the working edges (/./) saw between the lines, and 

plane the sawn edge of each piece to the gage lines. 

6. Plane the better end of each piece square to the working face ( ■') and the working edge 

(//)• 

7. Mark off the length of each piece, saw next to the line and plane the ends square to the 

working faces (/) and the working edges (//). 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



STEPS IN PLANING 
D. (Fourth Method) 

When there are two or more short pieces of the same width and thickness to be made. 

1. Procure a piece of stock longer than the combined length of the pieces. 

2. Plane the better broad surface flat and smooth. Mark /. 
Call this the "working face." 

3. Plane the better edge straight and smooth, and square to the working face (/). Mark //. 
Call this the "working edge." 

4. Gage the width from the working edge (//), and plane to the line. 

5. Gage the thickness from the working face (/), and plane to the line. 

6. Plane both ends square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//). 

7. Mark the lengths of two pieces, measuring from the finished ends. Saw next to the lines 

and plane the new ends square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//). 

Note: If there are three pieces to be made the wood sawed out of the middle will make 
the third piece. The ends should be squared to make it the proper length. 

If there are four pieces to be made repeat steps 6 and 7 on the wood sawed out of the 
middle of the strip. 

If there are five pieces to be made repeat steps 6 and 7 and the first part of this note. 



PLANING TO DIMENSIONS 



STEPS IN PLANING 

E. (Fifth Method) 

When there are two, three, or more long and narrow pieces of the same thickness and simi- 
lar lengths. 

i. Procure a piece, of stock wider than the combined width of all the pieces. 

2. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark . 
Call this the "working face." 

3. Plane both edges straight, smooth, and square to the working face ( ). Mark each of 

these edges //. 
Call them the "working edges." 

4. Gage the thickness from the working face ( /), and plane to the line. 

;. Gage the widths of two of the pieces from the working edges I ), saw near the lines' 

and plane to the lines on the pieces sawn off. 

a) If only three pieces are to be made, plane the edge of the piece sawed out of the 

middle of the board. This edge should be planed straight and smooth, and square 

to the working face (/). Mark it //. Gage the width from this edge and plane to 

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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



b) If there are four pieces to be made, the wood sawed out of the middle of the original 

piece will make the third and fourth piece. Plane each edge straight and smooth, 
and square to the working face (/) and mark //. Gage the widths of the third and 
fourth pieces from these edges, saw between the lines, and plane to the lines. 

c) If there are five or more pieces to be made the above steps are repeated until all the 

pieces have been planed to the proper width and thickness. 

6. Plane the better end of each piece square to the working face (/) and the working 

edge ( ). 

7. Mark off the length of each piece, saw to the lines, and plane the second end of each 

piece square to the working face (/) and the working edge (//). 



PLANING TO- DIMENSIONS 

STEPS IN PLANING 

F. (Sixth Method) 

When there are two pairs of pieces of medium length to be made, 
i . Procure stock longer than the combined length of the two pairs when the pairs are placed 
end to end, and wider than the combined widths of the two pieces in each pair. 

z. Plane the better broad face flat and smooth. Mark 
Call this the "working face." 

3. Plane both edges straight and smooth, and square to the working face. Mark //. 
Call these the "working edges." 

4. Gage the thickness from the working face (/), and plane to the lines. 

y. Gage the widths from the working edges (//), saw near the lines and plane to the lines. 

6. Plane both ends of each piece square to the working faces ( ) and the working edges (//). 

7. Mark off the lengths of each piece from the ends of the strips. Saw near the lines, and 

plane the ends square to the working faces (/), and the working edges (//). 



IJ 



II. NARROW SURFACE PLANING 

PENCIL POINTER 



This article is used to put the final point on a 
newly sharpened pencil. 

First procure the wood, %"Xi}4"X$" and 
plane it to the proper thickness, width and 
length, following the steps in Planing. — (First 
Method) or (Second Method), page J or 8. 

The workman may use the outline for the 
handle shown on the drawing, or he may design 
a suitable outline for himself. The handle 
should be kept symmetrical in outline. 

I f the outline shown on the drawing is fol- 
lowed; first, draw the center line, upon which 



the hole is located and bored. Next draw off" 
the taper and plane carefully to the line. All 
surfaces should be cleaned with sandpaper. The 
No. O sandpaper shown on the drawing is cut 
from the larger sheets. Ordinarily sandpaper 
is torn to size, and not cut, as it may be plainly 
seen that it would ruin the cutting edge on any 
tool. In this case an old knife may be used to 
prepare the paper, as a smooth edge is desired. 
The paper is glued to the wood with a very 
thin coat of glue. The handle may be decorated 
with a stencil design or simple carving. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



KEY BOARD 



This project is intended for one of the first 
exercises in planing. The material is procured 
J<"X4.J4"Xi3" and planed to the finished 
dimensions in the method outlined in the "Steps 
in Planing," page 8. The position of the holes 
and hooks are carefully located. Bore the 



holes with a drill bit. Mark for the hooks with 
a marking awl, pricking a small hole in the wood 
to give the screw on the hook a start. Sand- 
paper all the surfaces clean and smooth. Finish 
with wax or shellac. The board may also be 
stained. Use brass cup hooks to hang the keys on. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



KNIFE STROP 



The working drawing shows the knife strop 
in its simplest form. The better workmen may 
choose one of the other forms illustrated. 

Procure material ^"Xlf^'X 15" and plane 
to the finished dimensions shown on the working 
drawing. Locate the hole in the handle and 
bore the hole, boring only until the spur of the 
bit shows thru. Then the wood is turned 
around and the boring is finished from the 
opposite side. 



If one of the optional outlines for the handle 
is chosen, this is drawn on the wood and cut out. 
Then the surfaces are sandpapered smooth and 
clean. A fine sandpaper should be used for this. 
The emery cloth should not be cut out with 
any of the bench tools. There is probably 
an old knife kept in the shop which may be 
used for this kind of work. If desired, one side 
of the strop may be covered with leather, in- 
stead of emery cloth. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



FISH-LINE REEL 



This may also be used for a kite string or for 
the odds and ends of twine saved at home. It 
is intended for one who is just beginning wood- 
work. Procure stock }4" X3" Xll" and plane 
to the finished dimensions following the Steps 
for Planing (First or Second method, pages 7 
and 8). Draw the center lines both ways and 



draw the outlines of the notches. The heavy 
line shows the simplest kind of cut, as it may be 
made with the back saw. The dotted lines show 
two other ways to make the notch. These are 
cut out with the coping saw. See that all edges 
are smooth and all surfaces are clean before 
calling the object finished. 







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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



TRELLIS 



This project may easily be changed in con- 
struction or dimensions to suit some individual 
need. It may be made taller, with more cross 
pieces, or some other arrangement of parts may 
be used by the workman. If the drawing is 
followed: Procure stock in two pieces, one 
!Hi"X2.J^"X2,5", to make the upright parts, the 
other %" X2^"Xi2", to make the cross 
pieces. 

Plane these pieces to thickness, and on each 
edge. Then gage the widths of the parts from 
the edges, saw between the gage lines, and plane 
the sawn edges of each piece to the gage lines. 
Point the ends of the long pieces as indicated in 
the drawing, using either the knife or the 
chisel. Then measure for length and square ends 
on the pieces to make them the required length. 

When assembling, tack the pieces in place 
with only one brad in each joint. Then make 
sure that the pieces are square to each other, and 
secure them with a second brad in each joint. 



White or green paint is a good finish for this 
project. 

Plant Label and Garden Stake 

The steps taken in making these objects are 
quite similar to those for making the trellis. 

Procure material enough larger than the 
finished sizes to allow for planing. Plane to the 
finished width and thickness, draw the shape of 
the point carefully, and whittle or chisel to the 
lines. Then mark off the length and square the 
second end. 

The plant label has a saw cut in the top to 
hold a card with the name of the plant written 
on it. This card is held in place with a small 
nail or wire thrust through the hole shown, and 
thru the card when it is in the saw cut. 

The garden stake is trimmed as shown with 
the chisel or knife. 

These two objects may be left unfinished or 
may be painted to suit one's taste. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



PAIL STAND 



This project gives practice in planing long 
pieces and in making duplicate parts. Procure 
stock for the slats and square them up after 
the method described on page 1 1. The legs are 
planed square after the method on page 10. 

The outline for the bottom of the legs shown 
in the drawing may be used, or one more 
pleasing may be designed by the workman. 
If the drawing is followed, locate the center of 
the hole as indicated. Then draw the slanting 
lines shown. After boring the hole, saw on these 
slanting lines, and smooth up the edges. 



Sandpaper all the surfaces smooth and assem- 
ble, using either nails or screws. To be sure that 
the stand will go together squarely, first fasten 
the legs to one of the outside slats, making sure 
that the legs are at right angles to the outer 
edge of the slat. Then fasten the other outside 
piece so that it is flush with the other ends of the 
legs. The middle slat is then put in place and 
the job is done. Make sure that the ends of 
the slats overhang the legs the proper amount, 
and that they are in line, also that the stand 
rests level when stood on a flat surface. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



DISH DRAINER 

This article is intended to be used in the been accumulated as waste. Care should be 

bottom of the kitchen sink to raise the dishes taken to keep the stock to dimensions so that all 

placed upon it to drain off. similar pieces will be alike. 

The dimensions may be readily changed to When nailing the parts together, considerable 

fit any particular sink. care must be taken to insure a good job. Mark 

Considerable drill is obtained by the maker where each nail is to go. Nail the outside slats 

in the planing of narrow surfaces. He should to the cross pieces with only one of the nails at 

read the matter on planing; pages 9, 10, 11, each joining. The four-sided frame made in 

and 1 2, and should try to apply the rules in this way may then easily be squared, and held 

such a way that he will complete the work in the in shape by the second nail in each joint. The 

most efficient manner, as demanded by the remaining slats may then be located and nailed 

stock he has to use. In the making of an article in place. Keep the ends in line with each other, 

like this the workman often has an opportunity Sandpaper clean but do not apply any finish to 

to make use of a good deal of material that has this object. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



BACK REST 



This project gives the workman lots of drill 
in planing narrow surfaces. Generally there 
is material in strips about the shop that will 
work into the making of a few of these objects 
to advantage. 

Follow the rules tor planing carefully. (Steps 
in Planing; Second Method, page 8, or Fourth 
Method, page io.) When assembling, it is 
good to square a line across the outer edges 
of two of the slats to mark where the edges 



of the cross pieces are'lto /c'om'eT^-iPiisJv'^the 
outer slats in place with only one nail in each 
cross piece. The four sided frame, thus pro- 
duced may be squared, and held true by the 
second nail in each corner. The middle strip 
may then belocated and tacked in place. Finally 
the remaining strips are placed carefully and 
fastened. It screws are used the same steps 
may be taken. If the nails should show thru 
they may be clinched on the under side. 











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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



SEWING STAND 



This is a very popular little sewing stand 
because of its extreme lightness which makes it 
easy to carry about. When not in use it may be 
sowed away in a closet as it takes but little 
room when folded. 

The maker of this stand gets experience in 
planing duplicate pieces and in boring. The 
material for the legs is procured in one piece, 
• r, s " x6" X2j", and is planed as described on 
page 1 1. All four legs should then be the same 
width and thickness. This method is useful in 
making boxes and any other object made with a 
number of long duplicate parts. The ends of 
the legs are next marked out with the compasses 
and trimmed to shape with the chisel. When 
marking for the holes for the dowels, place the 
legs on the bench edge to edge and square the 
lines across all four at one time. Bore very 



carefully. If any hole is bored at an angle, the 
frame will be skewed and a poor job will result. 
The dowels should be carefully cut to length 
with the ends nicely trimmed. Sandpaper all 
the parts before assembling. The lower dowels 
are glued and nailed. The upper dowels are 
fastened in place with round head screws, so 
that they may be removed to receive the cre- 
tonne sewing bag as shown in the drawing. 
Before turning in the screws make a hole sligh tly 
smaller than the worm of the screw, otherwise 
the screw will surely split the dowels. 

This stand should receive a good finish. 
Mahogany stain, shellaced and rubbed down, 
seems most suitable for an object of this kind. 
Under certain conditions paint may also be 
used. Do all the finishing before attaching ihe 
work bag. 



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III. BROAD SURFACE PLANING 

CUTTING HOARD 



This is a simple exercise in broad surface 
planing. Procure the material J^"x6"Xi3". 
Plane to the required size, following the rules 
for planing in three dimensions, page 8. A 
choice of four designs is offered on the drawing. 
The curve in the working drawing is made with 
compasses, sawed out with the turning saw and 



smoothed with the spoke shave. The other 
designs show simpler treatments. Locate the 
holes as shown. Remember to bore only until 
the spur shows thru. Then reverse the wood, 
finishing the boring from the opposite side. Be 
sure all surfaces are clean and smooth. No 
stain or shellac should be used on this project. 



34 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



WRITING BOARD 



This is ;i useful article that a boy beginning 
to use woodworking tools can make well. It 
gives him an opportunity to learn to plane a 
broad surface flat and smooth, and to square 
the end on a wide board. The rules for planing 
given on page 8 should be followed closely to 
ensure a good result. 

The dotted lines suggest two modifications 
of the design. Line si represents half of a 
simple decorative curve for the top edge. I .me 
li combines a pleasing curve with a feature for 
increasing the usefulness of the board,, as a 
wide rubber band may be passed around the 
board at the notch marked C, to hold the paper 
in place, or to tuck the pencil under when not 
in use. 



The drawing for the Tooth-Brush Rack and 
several other projects suggest other curves that 
may be applied to the top edge of this board. 
The boy may originate his own design very 
easily by folding a piece of paper the size of the 
board, and cutting a number of curves with the 
scissors. No deep incisions in the edge should 
be made, as they would tend to destroy the 
usefulness of the board. After making a number 
of patterns get the teacher's advice as to which 
one is the most suitable to use. 

The board may be stained, or finished in 
natural color, according to the kind of wood 
used. Four thin coats of shellac should be 
applied and rubbed down with fine pumice- 
stone and raw linseed oil. 









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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



FOOT STOOL 



This article finds its place of usefulness by the 
easy chair or in the sewing room. 

The pieces are to be planed to size after the 
method outlined in the plates showing the 
steps in planing. In the case of the legs it 
would save labor to procure a piece of stock long 
enough to make both legs and plane it to width 
and thickness before sawing it in two, as indi- 
cated on page 10. 

The drawing shows how the stool may be 
modified in design to satisfy the individual 
taste. 

After assembling, the stool had better be 
stained and polished as this is difficult to do 
after the upholstering has been done. 

The upholstering is very simple. First tack 
strips of burlap or heavy cloth, 4" wide, to the 
top of the stool so that two thirds the width 



overlaps the edge of the top. Make a long roll of 
the material that is to be used for stuffing 
(curled hair, cotton, or tow) and lay it around 
the edge of the top. Carry the free edge of the 
strip of burlap over the filling and tack it down 
as shown on the drawing. This makes a soft, 
round edge, all along the outer edge of the top. 
The stuffing will fill the space inside this roll. 
It is covered with burlap or other rough, cheap 
material which is tacked down around the outer 
edge of the top. The top cover may then be 
smoothly stretched and tacked around the edge. 
Bind the edges with gimp, tacked with covered 
tacks that match the top material. The gimp 
should cover all the rough edges of the cover 
and the plain tacks. With reasonable care, 
after studying these directions, any boy ought 
to be able to do a very neat job. 



31 



Foot J 'tool. 



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38 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



MITER BENCH-HOOK 



This project lays strong emphasis on the 
squaring-up process. 

The stock for the base should be carefully 
squared to size following the rules for planing 
on page 8. The center line may then be drawn 
and the holes located upon it and bored, as 
indicated in the drawing. Procure a piece of 
stock long enough to include the miter block 
and the two end blocks. Plane this to the 
width of the base and to the thickness indicated 
on the drawing. The angle of 45° for the miter 
blocks may then be marked off and the surplus 
wood cut away by carefully sawing near the line 
with the back saw. Care should be taken to 
plane this surface to the exact angle and at the 
same time keep the surface at right angles to the 
broad surface. When this has been done, the 
length of the miter block may be marked off 
and the piece trimmed to size. 



The material remaining should make the 
two end blocks. Carefully square both ends 
before marking the length of these pieces and 
sawing them in two. In this case the "length" 
goes the short way of the board, as "length" 
in wood is generally understood to run with the 
grain. When these pieces have been trimmed to 
the finished size they are carefully glued in 
place, preferably with hot glue, and left in 
clamps until dry. The corners may then be 
trimmed as shown and the work cleaned up. 
The miter block is held in place with a piece 
of dowel, which is glued only to the block. The 
block may then be set aside, when it is desired 
to use the bench hook for square end stock. 

Give this project two coats of shellac to keep 
it clean and to protect it from the atmosphere. 
Apply the shellac in thin coats, allowing each 
coat to dry over night before sanding smooth. 



PLATE 13 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



BOOT-BLACKING STAND 



'I his project is an old favorite of the boys and 
gives excellent practice in broad surface planing 
and simple construction. 

The ends and sides should be planed according 
to the rules for planing, B, page 8. 

The construction lines for the pattern cut on 
the end have been left on the drawing to aid the 
workman to reproduce the curve on the wood. 
Draw the center line first and locate the center 
of the hole. Make a mark i" from each edge 
on the bottom end. Adjust the compasses to 
half the distance from this mark to the center of 
the hole and describe the arcs shown in light 
lines. Where these arcs intersect is the center of 
the arcs that outline the pattern. The radius 
is the same for all arcs. Bore the hole and then 
saw the curves with the turning-saw. The 
pupil may design his own outline with the per- 
mission of his teacher. When these curves have 
been smoothed nicely, the joint may be. marked 
out. First make a line across the edges as far 



from the top end as the side boards are wide. 
Square this line with lead pencil on both sides 
of the board. Set the gage to the thickness of 
the side boards and gage lines parallel to the 
edges on both sides of the end piece, from the 
top to the pencil lines. Saw very carefully just 
to this line with the rip saw, so that the saw will 
leave a flat surface for the side board to fit 
against. If the sawing is well done, no trim- 
ming will be necessary. Saw across the grain 
with the back saw to complete the joint. The 
sides and ends should next be assembled. All 
inside surfaces should be made smooth and clean. 
The location of the brads should be marked 
lightly and the brads started in the sides as 
shown on the drawing. Put glue on the edge of 
the end piece before placing the sides and driving 
the nails home. The corners of the box should 
be square when nailed together. The bottom 
board may be planed to thickness and with one 
edge and one end squared. The length is then 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORK.] NG PROJECTS 



marked very carefully and the board fitted and 
nailed in place. The edges may be trimmed off 
flush to the sides of the box. The pieces for the 
top are planed to dimensions and chamfered as 
shown on the drawing. One side is fastened 
down and the other is hinged to it. If the box 
is to be painted the brads may be driven thru 
the top, but if it is to be stained and polished 
it would be best to fasten the top with "blind 
nails" and glue. To do this drive brads into 
edges of the box on the side the cover is to be 
fastened to and cut off the heads %" above the 
surface of the wood. Press the top down on 
these brads until it touches the top edge of the 
box, then remove it and put glue on the edge 
of the box and clamp the top down with hand- 
screws. Wipe off any surplus glue and set 



aside to harden. The foot rest may be started 
at this time. Make a cardboard pattern from 
the drawing and mark around it on the wood. 
Saw to the lines with the turning-saw and 
smooth the edges with the spokeshave. The 
heel rest is sawed out with the back-saw. The 
place for the sole of the shoe is cut out with the 
spoke shave. The foot rest is fastened to the 
inner side of the hinged half of the top with 
dowels and glue, or "blind nails" and glue. 
When fitting the hinges remember these things: 
Half the thickness of the hinge when folded is 
sunk into each piece and the center line of the 
hinge pin should be just in line with the corner 
of the board. To locate hinges it is safe as a 
rule to place them one sixth of the length from 
the end of the board. 



IV. BORING 
BROOM HOLDER 

Procure a piece of stock 'V <3"Xii", plane smooth with file and sandpaper. Locate the 

to the required thickness, width and length, as centers of the screw holes as shown on the 

described under Sups in Planing, H, page 8. drawing and bore the holes with a 3/16" bit. 

Mark « m t the corners square, without the Draw the center lines and bore a hole with the 

curves, and saw t<» the lines with the back saw. expansive bit set ar 1 S 1 " dia. Bore only until 

To locate the center <>l the arc for the round the spur shows thru, then reverse the wood and 

corners, draw a 1" square in each of these cor finish the boring from the other side. Draw 

ners and the inside corner of this square will l>c lines 9 16" each side of the center line and saw 

the center of the arc. Trim to the arc with the out the opening shown on the drawing. 

chisel or coping saw and finish the surface Sandpaper all surfaces smooth and clean. 









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PEN AND PENCIL HOLDER 

To make a good job of this project tin' work is exact the spur on the bit will show thru at the 

man must use extreme care in boring the holes, intersection of the lines on the opposite side. 

Therefore he gains valuable experience in using The pieces should then be reversed and the 

the auger l>it. boring completed from the opposite sides. It 

The two pieces are first planed carefully to the holes are not bored straight the fact will be 

the dimensions shown in the drawing. Thenthe emphasized when the pencils are placed in 

holes are located on the thicker piece. Firsl them, ;is they will stand very much out ol line, 

draw the center lines the long way on each After boring, sandpaper all surfaces, ami nail 

edge. Then square pencil Inns around the piece the t\\<> pieces together as shown on the drawing, 

to locate the holes, as shown. When boring, Finish this object well with wax, or with 

the position ol tin' bit should be carefully noted stain, shellaced and rubbed down with pumice 

so that tin- holes will be Straight. It the boring Stone and raw linseed oil. 



P L ATI [6 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



Tl IK TOOTH BRUSH RACK 



This project gives the maker practice in 
planing duplicate parts, in boring, and fastening 
with brails. 

It is a project offering a number of opportuni- 
ties for themaker to exercise his ingenuity. The 
drawing shows five very simple designs for the 
outline of the back, and the workman may 
design many more by cutting paper patterns. 

Often boys want t<> make the rack hold more 
brushes. This is easily done by adding I '"in 

width for each extra hole. 

The back is planed to dimensions according 
to the rules for planing given on page 8. The 
wood for the cross pieces is procured long enough 
to make the two pieces in one strip. This is 
planed to proper width and thickness and the 
ends squared before it is cut in two. (See 
page 10.) This is the best way toget out pieces 
of wood of similiar dimensions, especially when 
they are short, as it is much more difficult to 



plane short pieces of wood straight than it is to 
plane longer pieces that give better support for 
the plane. 

When boring the holes, bore until the point 
of the bit shows thru, then turn the stock and 
complete the boring from the other side. This 
is to avoid the splintering of the edge of the 
hole, which happens when this precaution is 
not taken. 

Locate the brads carefully and drive them 
thru the back so that the points just show 
thru. The cross pieces pressed down on these 
points will be held in place while the brads are 
being driven home. Take care to have the cross 
pieces square to the edge of the back. 

The rack should be given a first class finish. 
White enamel over two coats of flat white paint 
well sandpapered makes a desirable kind of 
finish, as it may be cleaned without injury by 
washing with soap and water. 



49 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



CLOTHES-LINE REEL 



This is a mt\ useful article and a favorite 
with beginners in woodwork. The maker gets 
experience in planing duplicate pieces, in boring 
and in nailing. 

Procure stock for the sides in one piece, 
•\s"X5"Xi7". Plane oul the sides as de- 
scribed on page 9. 

Draw the center lines on the side pieces. 
Then place the pieces side by side and draw the 
lines across both at once, s" from each cnA. 
This will make the holes sure to be in line. 
When horing the holes make sure ilia! the hit is 
at right angles to the wood. It any one hole is 
bored at an angle the frame will he distorted, 
making a poor job. Bore until the point of the 
hit shows, then turn the wood oxer to finish 
from the other side. The corners of the side 



pities are easily trimmed with the chisel after 
they have been carefully marked out as shown 
on the drawing- 
Procure two pieces of' dowel 1 -" longXv'i" 
ill diameter. Smooth the ends and sandpaper 
them. Then sandpaper the pieces for the sides. 
Care must he taken in driving the nails, espe- 
cially if the dowels are made of hard wood. In 
this case it is best to drill for the brad first. To 
do this one may cut off the head of one of" the 
brads with the pliers. Place this in the chuck 
of' the hand drill and use it as a drill to make the 
holes to start the brads. 

This article does not call for a fine finish. It 
is enough to make il clean and smooth with 
sandpaper. Two coats of white paint may be 
applied if desired, to protect it from the weal her, 



PLATE Th 



Clothes 1/a/l Pell. 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



TOWEL STAND 



This rack is intended to be used in the bath- 
room, or kitchen, where towels may be hung to 
dry. It is so easily moved about that it may be 
stood before the radiator or stove to take advan- 
tage of the heat in drying out towels. Another 
use of this rack is that of holding newly ironed 
linens, such as towels, pillow slips, sheets, etc., 
until the ironer is ready to put the things away. 

To save lumber and labor, procure two pieces 
of stock, one %"X5"X22" and one %"XS}4" 
X26". The first will furnish the top and bot- 
tom pieces for each end. The second will fur- 
nish the four upright pieces. Plane the first 
piece according to the rules on page 13. To cut 
the curve of the lower edges of each piece, hold 
a pair edge to edge in the vise and bore a hole 
lyi" from each end with a 1" auger-bit. Bore 
only until the spur of the bit shows thru and 
turn the wood around. Finish boring from the 
other side to avoid splitting off the edges of the 



hole. When taken apart each piece will have 
half the hole in it. A line may be gaged tangent 
to these holes and the wood to be removed may 
be cut away with the knife, chisel or coping-saw. 

The curve for the corners should be drawn 
with compasses and trimmed with the chisel. 
The second piece of stoeJc may next be. planed 
to make the four upright pieces after the rules 
on page 11. The uprights are fastened to the top 
and bottom pieces by %" dowel pins. Holes Y%' 
are bored 1" deep for the dowel, as indicated in 
the drawing. The end frame should be glued 
together before boring for the towel rods. Clean 
and smooth all surfaces before assembling, as 
this is easier to do at this time. When the glue 
has hardened the holes for the rods may be 
located and bored and the dowels glued. 

Two coats of white paint and one coat of 
white or colored enamel will make the most 
serviceable finish for this article. 



PLATE I9 



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54 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



TROUSERS HANGER 



This is another useful article for the home. 
1 1 is designed to hold two pairs of trousers. Any 
kind of wood may be used. 

First plane the material to the thickness, 
width and length called for in the drawing. See 
page 8 for method of planing. Then draw the 
center lines for the holes as indicated and bore 
the holes with the auger-bit. 

Draw the lines for the slots with the marking 
gage on both sides of the board. Saw out the 
slots with the rip-saw, making the kerf on the 
inside of the lines. Mark out the "V" shape 



openings at the ends of the slots and saw with 
the back-saw. Before driving the screws shown 
in the drawing, bore with drill bits, first with 
one the size of the shank of the screw, and then 
with one smaller than the worm of the screw, 
so that the wood will not split as the screw 
enters. 

Use the countersink to ream the edge of 
the hole to fit the screw head. Sandpaper 
the surfaces smooth and clean, and turn the 
screw hook into a hole made, with brad awl in 
the center of the b'onrd. ' » ' * . { . 



V. OBLIQUE PLANING 

DOOR STOP 



This project teaches the principle involved 
in oblique planing. Procure stock }i" X,i}4" 
X13". This will make both pieces to size as 
described in Steps in Planing, page 10. 

In marking for the oblique surfaces, square 
lines across the edges and ends of the pieces the 
required distance from the corners, as shown on 
the drawing. Connect the ends of these lines 
with oblique lines drawn on both sides of each 



piece. Saw next to the lines with the back-saw> 
holding the pieces on the bench hook, broad side 
up. Smooth to the lines with the plane. To 
plane obliquely one must remember to plane 
from the edge of the board towards the end. 
The surface will be badly torn and roughed if 
the planing is done in the opposite direction. 
Sandpaper the surfaces smooth and clean and 
fasten the pieces together with brads. 







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I I Ml \T\KY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



I \l NDKY STICK 

This project should make the workman waste wood outside the outlines may be trimmed 

familiar with oblique planing. off with the plane. It desired some of the waste 

The wood is procured 7 S "\ 1}4"X2^)4". wood may be removed with the rip-saw. The 

Plane the working face and working edge, planing should be done from the big end to the 

Square the ends, making the piece the proper small end to follow the grain. 

length. Then draw the center line parallel The forked eiul may be drawn as shown in the 

to the working edge and locate and bore the working drawing, and the rip saw should be 

holes on it. When the holes have been bored, used in such a manner that very little trimming 

the tapering sides may be drawn by measuring will have to be dene after thejork is sawed out. 

V2" to each side of the center line on the end Sandpaper all the" surfaces smootri^ahd run 

which is to be reduced, and [" to each side of the sandpaper over the sharp corners, so that 

the center line on the larger end, drawing they will feel better in the hand. It is not neces- 

Straight lines to connect the points found. The sary to apply any finish to this project. 



6o 



ELEMENTARY VOOIMVORKINC PROJECTS 



CLOCK SHELF 



This drawing shows two extremely simple 
outlines for ;i clock shelf. One outline is shown 
iMi each side <>t the center line. The pupil is 
urged to try to originate his own outline 1>\ 
means of cutting paper patterns. Neither 
outline shown on the drawing is very beautiful, 
and the workman ought to find it wry easy to 
improve them. 

The pieces should first be planed to size after 
the rules on page S. Then the pattern decided 



on may be marked on the wood and the outlines 
cut w ith the coping-saw. 

Thoroly sandpaper all the pieces before 
nailing. The bracket should be nailed to the 
shelf first. Then it will be easy to nail the back 
to the shelf and bracket. Note that the .size and 
position of the nails are shown clearly on the 
drawing. 

Stain or paint the shelf to match the wood 
work of the room in which it is to be placed. 



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62 



KLEMENTARV WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



SHOE-POLISHING STAND 

This project may be made of whitewood or passes and cut out with the coping-saw, or the 

pine. turning-saw. Smooth the edge atter sawing. 

The pieces selected should be enough larger Before assembling, all the pieces should be 

than the finished dimensions to allow for plan- sandpapered clean and smooth, 

ing. The top and two sides are simply squared To assemble the stand, first nail the two 3" 

up to size, following the rules for planing (See sides to the bottom, 2'_" from each side of the 

page 8). The bottom board is not planed to center. Then the ends may be nailed on, to 

exact width until alter it is nailed in place, when protrude %}4" below the bottom. Next nail on 

its edges are planed flush with the edges of the the top. 

legs. Paint seems to be the most practical finish 

Plane the working face and edge on each of for this kind of article. After setting the nails, 

the pieces for the legs, or ends. Gage the thick- shellac over any knots or rich places in the wood, 

ness and plane to the line. The ends should be Then put on a thin coat of paint for a priming 

squared to the working edge and working face. coat. Next putty the nail holes and any other 

Then the center lines may be drawn and the opening that blemishes the surface. The second 

shape of the ends as shown on the drawing may coat of paint may be a little heavier than the 

be marked out by measuring to each side of the first. It should not be applied until the first 

center. When the edges have been trimmed coat has thoroly dried, at least for forty-eight 

down to the lines with the saw and plane, the hours. The finishing coat may be a coat of 

curve on the bottom may be drawn with com- black or gray enamel. 



PLATE 24 



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64' 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



TOWT.L RACK 



This project gives practice in narrow-surface 
planing, oblique planing, and end planing. Two 
methods of planing pieces of duplicate dimen- 
sions may be followed, one for planing the back 
and brackets, the other for planing the rods. 

For the back and brackets, one piece should 
be procured, long enough to make all three 
pieces. This may be planed to dimensions as 
has been described in the Steps in Planing, 
Fourth Method, page 10. The arms all have the 
same dimensions. H we planed them after the 
method used for the back and brackets, we 
would encounter considerable unnecessary diffi- 
culty because we would have a very long, slender 
stick to work on. If we saw out three separate 
sticks we increase our work somewhat thru 
dealing with so many pieces. The most efficient 
way of dealing with this kind of a job is to 
obtain one piece of stock wide enough to furnish 
material for the three pieces. Plane out the 
pieces after the rules under Fifth Method, 



page II. It will be noticed that the rods are 
tapered on the bottom edge. This taper should 
be carefully drawn on the sides of the rod. To 
do an accurate job it is best to square a pencil 
line across the bottom edge of the stock lyi" 
from the back end and another line }4" from the 
bottom edge on the outer or free end of each 
rod. The ends of these lines may then be con- 
nected with straight lines on both sides of each 
stick. It care is taken to follow these lines in 
planing off the bottom edge, all pieces will be 
the same shape and size. Great care must be 
taken in locating and boring the holes for the 
bolt. If one hole is only a tiny bit out of the 
way, the rods will not go together nicely. 
Square a pencil line all around each rod \]4," 
from the big end. Locate the middle of the 
line on the top and bottom edge of each piece 
and use the marking awl to prick a hole at that 
point. This will make a definite spot for the 
auger bit to start in, and there is very little 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



danger of getting the hole off center, as might 
happen if only pencil marks were used. This 
method of marking is good to use whenever 
very accurate boring is to be done. In this case, 
when boring, it will be best to bore only half 
way thru from each side to make sure the holes 
are exactly centered on the rods. 

The front corners of the brackets, and all 
four corners of the back are to be rounded. The 
curve should be marked on both sides of the 
wood with compassess. The bulk of the waste 
wood is removed with the chisel. The wood may 
be held in the vise and the chisel used so as to 
cut from the side towards the end wood, so as to 
follow the grain. Another way of chiseling 
would be to hold the wood flat on a scrap piece 
and chisel vertically, beginning at the side and 
proceeding around the corner toward the end. 
The flat side of the chisel is held next to the 
wood. The corner is finished smooth in both 
cases by filing or sandpapering around the end. 
When finished, there should be no corner or 



ridge where the curve began or ended, but the 
curve should blend into the straight side and 
end. The rods and brackets should next be 
sandpapered clean and smooth, and bolted 
together as shown on the drawing. 

The center lines for the screw holes are next 
drawn on the back pieces. It will be noticed 
that the drawing shows how far from the top 
the upper screw holes are. A line is squared 
across the piece at the distance from the top 
shown on the drawing. Then the center line 
for the lower holes is located as far below the 
first line as the distance between the centers of 
the brackets. The screwholes may then be 
bored, the holes countersunk and the rack 
assembled. The holes for hanging the rack to 
the wall should not be overlooked when boring. 
To find a solid place for this rack, tap on the 
wall lightly with a hammer if it is plastered. 
Fasten the rack where the wall sounds solid so 
that the screws will enter the framework of the 
house instead of only plaster. 



VI. CONSTRUCTION- BOXES, ETC. 

TELEPHONE BRACKET 



This bracket is designed to hang on the wall 
at a suitable height to support the telephone, 
either for a person sitting or standing while 
talking. If fastened so that the upper shelf is 
about 30" from the floor, the bracket takes the 
place of a telephone table. The upper shelf 
supports the telephone, the lower shelf forms a 
pocket for the telephone directory. Before 
getting out the material for the bracket make 
sure that the pocket is large enough for the 
directory used in your locality. If not, the 
dimensions should be changed to suit. 

A board }4" Xg}4"X4.o", is needed for the 
two shelves and the two ends. Plane one edge 
of this board straight, smooth, and square to 
the broad faces. Next mark off the width (9") 
and plane the second edge to the line. This 
procedure ensures your making all four pieces, 



i.e., the two shelves, and two ends, of an equal 
width. This board may then be cut up to make 
the four pieces, care being taken to keep to the 
dimensions called for in the working drawing. 
The best method would be to square both ends 
of the board first, then mark off the length of 
one shelf from each end. These pieces may 
then be sawed off, and the ends trimmed 
to the lines. The pieces remaining should 
make the two ends. This may be left intact 
until after the pattern is drawn upon it, 
as it may be noted from the drawing that the 
ends are not squared, but modelled from an 
outline preferably designed by the individual 
workman. 

The wood for the back should be 14" long, 
taken from a board slightly wider than 10". If 
it is difficult to obtain a board wider than 10", 



68 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



one slightly under may be used, as the design 
may be made so as to compensate for a slight 
difference in size. One edge should be planed 
straight and square, and the ends should be 
scpiared to this edge, making the board the 
required length. 

The workman should now proceed to develop 
his paper patterns for the outlines. He should 
cut a half dozen at least, bearing in mind that 
intricate curves and deep incisions are altogether 
out of place. Avoid true arcs, or parts of circles 
as much as possible, as they give the work a 
stiff, mechanical appearance, and are much less 
interesting than flowing curves that have the 
appearance of knowing where they are going. 
Wavering or wandering curves are also undesir- 
able. When satisfactory patterns have been 
developed they may be used as templets to 



mark around to apply the outline to the wood. 
The curves may be sawed out with the coping- 
saw and smoothed. 

Before assembling the parts set the plane to 
take a thin, fine shaving, and smooth the broad 
surfaces of each piece. Then sandpaper the 
surfaces to a fine finish. 

The bracket may be fastened together with 
either brads or screws. If brads are used, use 
1/4", No. 15, and drive four into each joint, 
one about }4" from each edge, and the others 
spaced evenly between. If screws are used, 
use iK"> No. 6 Rd Hd Blued screws for the 
sides, and the same size in flat head screws 
for the back. Three screws tor each joint should 
be enough. 

Apply a first class finish to harmonize with 
the bracket's future surroundings. 



PLATE 26 



69 



7£LEPh/OA/E 3/?ACM£T 



Contour of Back one/ Sides 
mau be from /ndi^/c/uo/ Design 




70 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



MILK BOTTLE HOLDER 



This rack will hold the bottles that are placed 
outside where milk is delivered, keeping the 
milk and bottles out of reach of stray cats and 
dogs. It is designed for two bottles but may 
be easily changed to accommodate a larger 
number. 

Procure two pieces of wood, one for the sides, 
%," X$l4" Xio" , and one for the front and 
bottom y s "X4H"Xig". Plane the %" piece 
to proper width and thickness, after which the 
outline for the ends may be marked out with 
the compasses. The curved edges may be 



sawed out with the turning-saw or the coping- 
saw. After sawing they should be smoothed 
carefully. When the holes have been bored the 
ends will be finished except for cleaning with 
sand paper. The second piece of stock is planed 
as described under Third Method of Planing, 
page 9. All pieces are then smoothed with 
sandpaper and nailed together. 

Since this object is going out-doors where it 
will be exposed to the weather it should be giv^n 
two coats of paint. 



M/LK boTTLL rtOLDte 
Jk'D/A. 




Fog £ach E.xtka Bottle Ado ■4-^: to Lcngth 



72 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



TRAY FOR TABLE SILVER 



This tray is used in the drawer of the serving 
table or sideboard to make a separate place for 
each kind of table silver — knives, forks, tea- 
spoons and tablespoons. It gives the workman 
considerable practice in accurate planing and 
teaches him to make a "butt-joint." The 
material for sides may be provided in one piece 
Vs"X6"Xis". 

To plane out the two pieces, proceed as de- 
scribed in the Third Method under Steps in 
Planing, page 9. 

The best way to make the end pieces and 
partitions (if no small pieces are available in 
the shop that will work in at this time) is to 
use two strips, one %"X3"Xig", and the 
other %"X3"Xig". These strips will make 
three and two pieces respectively when planed 
out as described under Fourth Method, page 10. 
Mark out the positions of the brads that fasten 
the sides and partitions together. When these 
are located, prick a hole into the wood with a 
brad point or marking awl and sandpaper the 



surfaces clean — excepting the ends. 

The ends are not sandpapered because they 
are apt to be rounded and thereby spoil the 
joints. Nail the pieces together very carefully, 
taking care to drive the nails straight, or 
slightly "toed," that is, inclining towards one 
another to increase their holding power. Only 
a poor workman will allow the brads to come out 
thru the sides. Use the nail set to sink brads 
slightly below the surface of the wood. 

The bottom board is made from a piece of 
stock %" Xio"Xi5". It is planed to thickness 
and one edge and one end only are planed 
square. It is then sandpapered clean on the 
inside surface and nailed to the box frame, 
with care taken to have the tray frame exactly 
flush with the finished end and edge. This 
ensures the squareness of the tray. The pro- 
jecting side and end may then be trimmed 
carefully flush with the box. The inside of the 
tray may be lined with felt or similar material 
if desired. 



PLATE 28 




~4 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



POULTRY FEEDER 



For this project y^" stock planed on two sides 
may be used. The pieces may be squared up 
after the method outlined on page 7. 

The drawing should be studied carefully to 
learn the sizes of the various parts. It would be 
well to write these sizes down in a "bill of 
material" arranged in tabular form showing 
first the length and width of each piece in its 
"rough dimensions" and then the length and 
width of each piece in its "finished dimensions." 
Such a bill of material tends to eliminate many 
chances of error, such as duplication of work, 
pieces cut out to wrong dimensions, etc. Square 
all the pieces to size except the upper front 
piece, and the bottom. All surfaces should be 
sandpapered clean and smooth. 

Fasten the parts together with \}4" No. 15 



brads. It would be best to nail the front and 
back to the sides first. Then the upper front 
piece, forming the "hopper" may be planed to 
fit exactly between the sides, after which it is 
nailed in place. One edge and one end of the 
bottom are planed square. The bottom is then 
nailed in place with the squared side and end 
flush to the side and front of the box. The 
overlapping rough edge and end may then be 
carefully trimmed flush with the box. The 
cover is reinforced by two cleats screwed to the 
under side. These are planed to the width and 
thickness shown on the drawing, and cut to a 
length that makes an easy fit between the front 
and back of the box. These cleats are screwed 
to the cover so as to hold it in position. The 
cover may also be hinged. 



PLATE 29 



75 



r/'A 



w 



POULTPY fZEDCQ, 




Jzcr/ON o/v L/nl A£. 



7 6 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



LETTER TRAY 



If someone uses a typewriter at home or in 
office work, one of these trays will, be found 
almost indispensible, as it takes care of the 
paper used on the machine, or keeps letters in 
place until they can be taken care of. Many 
business men are accustomed to have three 
trays like this on their desks, one marked 
"IN," containing the letters to be examined, 
one marked "OUT," containing work completed, 
and one marked "HOLD," containing letters or 
work that needs attention later. 

To make this project use a piece of stock for 
the sides ,K"X8"Xi5K", and another piece 
^"X8"XiiJ^", for the ends. These pieces 
are planed as described on page 9. 

If either of the optional joints are used the 
lengths of the sides and ends will have to be 
changed. 

One end only of the tray is cut down as shown 
on the end view. This is cut to lines drawn with 
the compass. Saw with the coping-saw and 



smooth with the knife and sandpaper. 

If the plain butt joint is used, locate the posi- 
tion of the brads, and prick a little hole in the 
wood with the brad point. Then sandpaper 
the pieces on the inner side and nail together. 

The bottom should be planed to thickness, 
with one edge and one end squared. The inside 
surface is then sandpapered, and the piece is 
nailed with the finished edges flush with the 
side and end of the tray. The remaining edge 
and end are then trimmed flush with the tray. 
This is the most practical way to fit the bottom 
to a box. 

The tray should be well finished. It may be 
stained to match the desk it is to be used on and 
polished with four coats of shellac rubbed down 
with pumice stone and raw linseed oil. An addi- 
tional finishing touch may be given by gluing a 
piece of felt over the entire bottom of the tray to 
prevent the box from scratching the top of the 
desk. 



PLATE ^O 



77 



Lettlq Tpay 







Opt/onal Uo/ntj 



/4-r 






/0i- 



6- 



- * 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



BIRD FEEDING SHELF 

This little shelf is made very much like the made of } + " material so that there will be plenty 

grain feeders for poultry. The food is placed in of thickness to hold the nails. The rest of the 

the hopper and sifts thru as the birds eat away feeder is made of yi" stock, 

that which is at the bottom. The top is made The top is hinged to make it simple to place 

overhanging to shelter the food and the floor is the food in the hopper. Give the feeder at least 

made with an incline to make sure that the rain two coats of paint before placing it outdoors to 

will run off and away from the food. The floor preserve it from the action of the weather, 

is also wide to catch and save any food flicked A piece of spruce i" x 3" x 6 feet in length 

about by the birds. will serve for a pole. The feeder may befas- 

The drawing shows how the sides are marked tened to the pole by means of two yi," x lyi" 

out to prevent waste of wood. These sides are carriage bolts. 



PLATE 31 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



SEWING STAND 



The boy who has learned to plane broad sur- 
faces well should have no difficulty in making 
this sewing stand. 

Make the ends, or legs first. The outline may 
be drawn directly on the wood, or a stiff paper 
pattern may first be cut out and used for 
marking on the wood. Care should be taken 
when cutting the wood to shape, to keep the 
sides symmetrical. 

Next prepare the sides. These may be planed 
to dimensions as indicated in Steps in Planing, 
page 8. The side pieces are nailed to the legs, 
and the upper edge is planed to the same angle 
that is on the upper end of the legs. The work- 
man should remember that it is good practice to 
sandpaper the inner surfaces of an object like 
this before it is nailed together. 

The piece for the handle should next be pre- 
pared. The outline may be modified to suit the 
individual. To make the hand hole, bore holes 
with a i-inch auger bit for the ends of the open- 



ing. See page 48 for directions for boring. Gage 
lines on both sides of the wood connecting the 
holes and tangent to them. Saw next to these 
gage lines with the key-hole saw, and trim to the 
lines, making the surfaces smooth. Round the 
sharp corners slightly. Sandpaper the handle 
smooth and clean and nail and glue it in place as 
indicated. 

Next work out the piece for the bottom. 
Notice that it has to be fitted carefully. Both 
edges are beveled. 

The lids are easily squared up, and are to be 
hinged. A piece of light chain fastened between 
two screw-eyes will hold the lids in a horizontal 
position when open, so as to form a shelf for 
sewing equipment. 

If desired a movable tray may be made, and 
supported just below the handle. It will hold 
buttons, pins, and other sundries. 

Mahogany stain, or walnut stain, with a 
good shellac finish should be applied. 



PLATE 3 




VII. MODELLING 



MATCH STRIKER 



This project is for the beginner, and therefore 
is very simple. Stock ^4" thick may be used 
and planed in the method used when stock is 
furnished the proper thickness. This method 
is described on page 7. The center line is 
located and the holes are bored as shown. 
Several suggestions are shown for working out 
the outline. It is not necessary for the pupil 
to follow any of these patterns as he may easily 
design one of his own. Cut pieces of paper to 
the size of the pieces of wood and fold on the 
center line. Then cut out a number of patterns 



for the top and bottom edges, remembering 
that deep cuts or "fancy" cuts are not appro- 
priate. Keep the outline as simple as possible. 
Thruout this book are many samples of the 
right kinds of outlines of articles like this. 

Do not cut the sandpaper with your bench 
tools but with an old knife or tool kept for this 
purpose. Finish the wood before the sandpaper 
is glued on. Stain may be used, or the wood 
finished in a natural shellac and wax finish to 
suit your own taste or demands made by the 
kind of wood used. 



PLATE 32 



83 



Match sJtq/klp 



















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Opt 


WNfi, 


L 6 


UTL 


r/EJ 


s 










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1 


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,1 


i 


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\ 




J 


, 


\ 




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K 




V 


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r 


\ 


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f> 


/ 




tSamdpapcq 
[Glued O/v. 



7J 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



SUIT HANGER 

This is an article that everyone has use for. i}4" from the straight edge. The edges of these 

The maker gains experience in using the turning- holes are connected with lines made with the 

saw and compass-saw, and in smoothing curves marking gage held against the straight edge, 

with the spokeshave. Start the compass-saw in one of the holes, 

The material may be pine, whitewood or sawing inside of the line, far enough to admit 

basswood. It is planed to dimensions in the the end of the rip-saw, which will finish the cuts 



usual way, except the planing to width, which 
is omitted on this project, as the width is 
determined when the curve is laid out. 

After the board is planed to thickness and 
length, lines are drawn across the board at 
3-inch intervals as shown on the drawing. The 
curve is plotted by marking on each of these 
lines the distance called for on the drawing, 



to the opposite hole. The edges of the opening 
made in this way are then smoothed with the 
knife or chisel, and file and sandpaper. 

The turning-saw will cut off the waste wood 
beyond the curve. The workman should learn 
to cut close to the line, on the waste side so as 
to leave a small amount of wood for smoothing 
to the line with the spokeshave. The edge 



measuring from the working edge. The curve should be smooth and square to the working 



is drawn freehand, so that it passes thru each 
mark. Care should be taken to have the curve 
smooth and free from irregularities. 

The opening for the trousers is made next. A 
i-inch hole is bored thru on the two outer 
section lines, the centers of these holes being 



face after spokeshaving. There should be no 
lumps or humps in the curves. 

To round the top edge as shown in the draw- 
ing, first chamfer the corners W X %" with 
the spokeshave. Then shave off the upper 
ridges, making the surface as round as possible 



PLATE 34 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



with the outer edges kept sharp as shown, on the thumbs. A very smooth edge is ob- 

When sandpapering, this sharpness is pre- tained in this way. After the other surfaces are 

served by holding the sandpaper flat and sandpapered turn the screw hook into a hole 

doubled between the thumbs and forefingers, made with the brad awl. This article may be 

with the thumbs on top. Rub with the pressure stained and finished or may be left unfinished. 



MODELLING 



*7 



ROLLING BLOTTKK 



This project gives the student an opportunity 
to learn some of the principles involved in 
modeling a broad surface with hand tools. 

The piece of wood for the base is first planed 
to the dimensions called for on the drawing. 
Center lines are drawn around the short way 
of the piece. It is next held in the vise so that 
the edge is flush with the top surface of a waste 
piece of wood that lies flat on the bench. The 
center line is then extended square across the 
waste piece. The center of the arc outlining the 
base is located on this line, and the arc drawn 
with the compasses. When the arc has been 
drawn on both edges, saw cuts are made with 
the back-saw across the grain on the bottom 
side, nearly to the arc. These cuts should be 
about }i" apart. Their purpose is to make it 
easier to remove the waste wood with the chisel. 
It is best to do the chiseling part way across the 
board from each edge, rather than to cut all 
the way across the wood. In cutting clear across 
a board with a chisel, (or any cutting tool), one 



is apt to chip off the further edge. When the 
waste wood is removed, the spokeshave may be 
used to model the surface true to the lines. 
When finished this surface should test straight 
across, and should be without lumps — a nice 
true curve from end to end. 

The top piece is very simply prepared, as ir 
needs only to be planed square and true to 
dimensions. If desired, the top edge may be 
chamfered, measuring W in on the top, and 
1 g" dnw n on the sides and ends. The holes for 
the screws should be located and bored carefully 
so that they will correspond with those in the 
handle. 

It would be appropriate to apply some surface 
decoration to the top surface of the blotter. 
Either carving or simple stencilling in colors 
would be suitable. The top piece could be 
covered with ooze leather, which has been 
tooled, and the idea could be carried out in the 
making of a complete desk set. 

The handle offers a boy an opportunity to 



88 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



design his own pattern. Sometimes a drawer 
knob is used for a handle. The metal kind that 
has the screw threaded into it is the best. 

It the drawing is followed in making the 
handle, a piece of wood *4" Xi" X<\}4" should 
be used. This is planed to size except for the 
width, which is not changed. Then the centers 
of the curves are located and the arcs drawn 
with the compasses as shown on the drawing. 
The coping-saw or turning-saw may be used to 



cut to the curves and the edge is smoothed, care 
being taken to make the edge square to the 
broad surface. >L 

The holes for the screws are located and 
bored from the bottom edge and all the pieces 
sandpapered clean and smooth, and assembled. 

This model should be nicely finished, either 
with stain, or wax or shellac, according to the 
kind of wood used and the finish on the furni- 
ture with which it is to be used. 



8 9 



/Goll/a/cj 3lott£&. r 



,i'o,A. 




5C£EWS /""&. 



9° 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



PEN AND INK STAND 



For this project procure three pieces of wood, 
one for the back, %"X7)4" X7}4", one for the 
brackets, %" X2}4" X 12", and one for the base, 

K"X5"X7K". 

Plane the base and back after the rules for 
planing under Second Method, page 8. 

Square up the wood for the brackets after the 
rules for planing under Fourth Method, page 10. 

The workman may use the outlines shown in 
the drawing, or he may try to originate his 
own outline by means of cutting paper patterns 



until he develops an outline that is satisfactory. 
Use the coping-saw to cut the curves. 

Sandpaper all the parts thoroly before nailing. 

Nine brads should be enough to hold this 
object together, three in each joining. Nail the 
back to the brackets first, then nail the back to 
the base. 

Any kind of an ink bottle may be used with 
this stand. 

Stain with a mahogany or walnut stain, and 
polish nicely. 



PLATE j6 




9 2 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROTECTS 



LETTER HOLDER 



Generally the workman will find small pieces 
of stock in the shop to make this project. 

All pieces are first planed to the finished 
dimensions, following the Steps in Planing, 
Second Method, page 8. The screw holes are 
then located and bored. 

The pupil may choose one of the outlines 



shown, or he may design one for himself, taking 
care to avoid any intricate or deeply cut out- 
lines. The coping-saw will cut out the pattern 
and the edges should be sandpapered smooth. 
If desired, a stencil design may be applied to the 
front surface. Finish with stain and wax or 
shellac. 



LtTTEQ /iOLD££. 



&&-/T PoSS/8L£- 
0UTU/Sf£j JtiOWN. 

/nd/v/dual Des/gns 
MAr 3z Used. 




94 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



INK STAND 



This inkstand is made of thin stock, and gives 
the workman an opportunity to practice planing 
duplicate pieces, to originate his own outline, 
and to use brads in nailing the parts together. 

Procure three pieces, one >^"X3"Xi6", 
one y 2 " X l'X" X n", and one ><" X6X" X9". 
The first will make the back and top piece, 
the second will make the two cross pieces, 
and the third will make the bottom piece. 
Plane the first and second pieces after the 
rules in Fourth Method, page 10, and plane 
the third piece after the rules under Second 



Method, page 8. 

When the workman has developed satisfac- 
tory paper patterns for the outlines they may be 
applied to the wood. The coping-saw will cut 
out the shapes, after which the edges should be 
nicely smoothed. 

The size of the opening for the ink bottle is 
easily changed to suit the individual. 

Assemble the parts with 1" No. 18 brads. 

Stain and polish to suit taste and kind of 
wood used. 



PLATE 38 



95 



ifA 



T~- 



-S- 



f- -\ 



j , 



/v/r yJrAA/o 

Bt-A/srf Dss/ary 

Pupil, to Originate 
Des/gay fok Outuml 
As kSuggesteo Br 
Dotted Lines at 'A5C 



•aitt 



Faste/v VY/th Scads, /"#/6. 



,1 

_9J0l 



-2*^- 

<* 






9 6 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



NECKTIE RACK 



This model may be enriched in outline by the 
pupil. Several suggestions are offered in the 
drawing. 

First procure material wide enough to include 
both the back and tie rod. Plane the two pieces 
by the method described on page 9. 

The wood for the brackets is best procured in 
a piece long enough for the two end to end. 
Plane these pieces after the rules on page 10. 
It is best to assemble this model when all the 
pieces are squared up so that it will go together 



well. It will then be taken apart so that the 
edges may be modelled to the workman's 
individual design. 

Work out suitable designs by cutting out 
paper patterns. When a suitable one has been 
made, mark around the pattern on the wood and 
cut the outlines with the coping-saw. 

Smooth all the edges carefully, sandpaper 
and reassemble. The article may be finished 
with stain and shellac, making it harmonize 
with the other furnishings in the room. 



PLATE 39 



97 



A/£C/f77£ PACff. 



r-r^'-^sr -tfr/'-tfr- 




B. 



B. 



D/A. 



~r- 



I z , 



(6 



/J" 



yJoe&vj J'*<5. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



WHISK-BROOM HOLDER 



An excellent opportunity is offered by this 
project for the pupil to design his own outlines. 
The drawing suggests five different patterns for 
each edge that are practical to model. The 
pupil may design many more by folding and 
cutting pieces of paper that are the same size 
as the piece of wood. After a number of simple 
patterns have been cut, the most pleasing may 
be applied to the wood and cut out with the 
coping-saw. 

Procure material for the back enough longer, 



wider and thicker than the finished sizes to 
allow for planing. The sides of the holder are 
made easiest from one piece }4" Xi^"x6", 
which is planed to width and thickness before it 
is sawed in two (See page 10). The front is 
first squared to size, and then the edges are 
tapered as shown. The back is made the proper 
width and thickness, but it is necessary only to 
mark for length, as the ends are finished when 
the pattern is cut. Remember to bore the holes 
before assembling. Polish with wax or shellac. 



PLATE 40 



99 



Wfl/iSK 3JPOOM fiOLDEB. 
Pupil Mflr O/s/G/ffAre. Des/gm of Outuhe. 
S" H 





Fhstch With Bgads /* */£ 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



BOOK STALL 



The workman may easily change the size of 
this project to suit his own needs. 

If the size indicated in the working drawing 
is followed, procure material for the back and 
base, and plane the pieces to size after the 
method outline under Steps in Planing, Second 
Method, page 8. 

The wood for the ends is best procured in one 
piece, Ys" X6}4" X15", and planed to size as 
indicated on page 10. 

It will be noted that the back piece is set into 
a rabbet cut into the end pieces. This rabbet 
runs across the end wood and is, therefore, more 
easily sawed out with the back-saw than planed 
out with the rabbet plane. 

The workman may design his own outline for 
the back and ends. Saw the outline with the 
coping-saw. The chamfer on the base is made 
on the front edge and the ends. If the bookstall 



is to be used on a table or desk it is not necessary 
to bore the holes in the back, as they are 
intended for screw holes if the bookstall is to go 
on the wall. They are located 8" each side of the 
center so that they will be 16" apart, which is 
the distance the studding is spaced in modern 
houses. If the wall is tapped lightly with the 
knuckles or the hammer, the solid sound will 
indicate where the stud is. If one screw enters 
the other should. 

The surfaces of all pieces are sandpapered 
smooth and clean before assembling. The back 
is nailed and glued to the sides, the brads, 
1/4", No. 15, passing thru the back, into the 
ends. The base is nailed to the back and ends 
after they are assembled. Take care to see that 
the ends are kept at right angles to the back 
when the base is nailed on. 

Apply a good finish with stain and shellac. 



PLATE 41 



&4 



r? 



M 8ook Stall 



D£S/GN£D TO /Ya/VG 

oa/ t/-/£ Wall ae 

TO Sta/VD ON TrtC 

7able. 




VIII. GOUGING 

SAFETY MATCH-BOX STAND \ 

This project offers the workman an oppor- size of the boxes 06111111011 in any comfniinity. 

tunity to learn to use the gouge. The work is simple. The base is planed 

The design of the stand shown in the working square after the rules found on page 8. The 

drawing is extremely simple, and may be modi- details are drawn on the piece next, and the 

fied by the workman that is ambitious to have edge is chamfered. The ends should be cham- 

something more original. The stand for the fered first. The gouge is then used to make the 

match box may be placed in the middle of the grooves. Smooth the surface of the grooves 

base, for instance, and another groove cut with sandpaper wrapped around a short piece 

in the opposite side of the base. The sur- of dowel, about 1" in diameter. Sandpaper all 

face of the chamfer may be made concave the flat surfaces with the sandpaper held flat on 

with the gouge if desired. Thesizeof the stand a block. Apply a good finish using stain and 

for the match box may be changed to suit the shellac to suit individual taste. 



PLATE 42 



IO3 



5afety Match- Box Jtand. 



V 



i 






-5'- 



~¥ 






^1* 



5 



*" 



104 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



PEN AND PENCIL REST 



This project is intended to give the workman 
practice in using the gouge, both with and 
across the grain. The design in the drawing is 
very simple. The ambitious workman may do 
much to beautify the object by using the gouge 
to model the ends and sides in some manner to 
make the surfaces more pleasing than the plain, 
flat surfaces shown in the drawing. 

The stock is first planed square and to size in 
the manner described in Steps in Planing, 
Second Method, page 8. The lines locating the 
grooves are then placed as indicated in the 
working drawing. Suitable gouges are used to 
remove the waste wood. When cutting the 
crosswise groove the workman should remember 



the rule that no cut should be made with any 
edge tool all the way across a piece of wood, 
going crosswise to the grain. These cuts should 
be made half way across from each side to 
insure a clean cut job. When the grooves are 
cut as smoothly as possible with the gouge they 
may be sandpapered, the sandpaper being held 
wrapped snuggly around a suitable piece of 
dowel. The edges of the block may next be 
modelled to suit the workman. It will be found 
better to do the cutting on the ends before the 
sides are touched. 

Sandpaper all the surfaces smooth, and apply 
a good finish. The stain should match the 
desk or table on which this will be used. 



PLATE 4/ 




io6 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



INK STAND AND STATIONERY HOLDER 



This project gives practice in using the gouge 
and chisel and in modelling curves. 

Procure stock for the base of this project 
first. Plane it to proper size, following the out- 
line on page 8. Mark where the edge of the 
groove is to be, and use a gouge, about $4," wide 
to cut out the wood. The surface should be 
made as smooth as possible with the gouge. 
Then a piece of sandpaper may be wrapped 
around a piece of i" dowel, and the surface 
dressed down smooth. 

If the shop is equipped with a plow, the groove 
for the stationery holder should be planed out 
next. If no plow is to be had the groove may be 
chiselled out. Gage lines deeply to mark the 
sides of the groove, and chisel between them 
with a narrow chisel. 

The recess for the ink bottle may be made to 
suit the bottle the boy wishes to use. Mark the 
outline with the knife point, and use the chisel 
to make the recess. The chisel is driven into 
the wood with the flat side against the edge of 



the opening, and the bevelled side towards the 
waste wood. To cut out the waste wood the 
chisel is held bevel down, flat side up. When 
finished, the recess for the bottle should be 
flat on the bottom and the edges should be 
smooth, just fitting the bottle. 

The chamfer may next be cut on the ends and 
front edge of the base. 

The upright pieces for the stationery holder 
are squared to size, and the front piece planed 
carefully to fit the groove made for it. The 
pattern for the top edge outline may be designed 
by the individual and applied to the wood. The 
coping-saw will cut the shape. Sandpaper all 
the surfaces smooth and assemble. Glue will 
hold the front of the stationery holder in the 
groove. Glue and brad the back in place. 
Make sure that the front and back of the 
stationery holder stand at right angles to the 
base before the glue hardens. 

Stain to suit the surroundings and finish. 
Use four coats of shellac, rubbed down. 



PLATE 44 



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IX. JOINTS 

WASTE PAPER BASKET 



The workman making this waste paper basket 
gets practice in the making of the glue joint. 
The sides are each built up of three pieces of 
wood, the outer pieces being thicker than the 
middle pieces, giving the effect of panelling. 
Select a kind of stock for the sides that is not 
likely to warp or twist. Plane only one broad 
side of the middle piece, that side which is to 
be the low surface when the pieces are glued 
together. The other broad surfaces may be 
planed after the pieces have been glued together. 

The first step in making the glue joints is to 
plane one edge of one outer piece as straight 
and flat as possible. One edge of the middle 
piece is then planed very carefully to match this 
edge, so that a perfectly tight joint is obtained, 
and the inner flush surface is flat. When this 
has been accomplished, the middle board is 
planed to width, and great care is taken to 



make the new edge perfectly flat and smooth. 
The edge of the second outer piece is then care- 
fully planed to match, and make a tight fitting 
joint with the middle board. Hot glue may then 
be spread on the surfaces of the joints, and the 
pieces are rubbed together quickly. The glued 
pieces are then laid flat on a piece of paper 
spread on a flat surface, and allowed to remain 
undisturbed until the glue has hardened. When 
this has happened, the center line is drawn 
down the middle board, and half the width is 
measured to each side of the center line, and 
lines are drawn to mark the width of the side. 
Plane the edges to these lines. Clean off the 
glue that may be on the surfaces, and plane 
them smooth. These steps are repeated to 
make each side. The outline for the top and 
bottom edges of the sides may be chosen or 
designed by the workman at this time, and may 



PLATE 4; 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



be applied to the wood, and cut out. The work- 
man should see that the edges of the narrow 
sides fit snugly against the inner surfaces of the 
wide sides, so that a good joint will result when 
the sides are fastened together. Cold glue is 
spread on these edges, and th~ corners are 



nailed together, each with five brads, l}4" 
No. 15, spaced evenly. The bottom is fitted 
into the frame, and its ends are supported on 
two cleats, braded to the sides of the frame. 
Smooth all surfaces, and apply a first class 
finish. 



BOOK SUPPORTS 



In making these book supports the workman 
practices the making of duplicate pieces, the 
modelling of edges, the making of the dado 
joint, and oblique planing on a broad surface. 
If time permits, he may also apply some form 
of surface enrichment to the ends, such as 
stencilling or simple carving. In the making of 
the supports, the following method of procedure 
has been found to work out best. 

Procure two pieces of material, each %" X 
6X"Xi4". Each piece will make one of the 
supports. Plane each piece square as described 
on page 10, except that the last step is to be 
omitted at this time, that is, the pieces will not 



be cut in two. Next rr ark on the sides ar d edges 
of each piece the outlines of the oblique surfaces 
The wood is then held in the vise at an angle 
that makes it easy to plane on the oblique sur- 
face. Most of the waste wood may be easily 
removed by first planing across the grain with 
the jack plane. If the plane is held at an angle 
with the edges of the board, with the knob or 
front end nearer the end of the wood, and is 
moved somewhat sideways, to cut squarely 
across the grain of the wood, the workman will 
be taking what is known as a "shearing cut." 
The wood will not tear up, nor break off on the 
far edge if the cut is made clear across the board. 













PLATE 46 








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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



When the line is approached, the planing should saw-kerfs are just inside these lines. The outer 

be done with the grain, towards the end of the sides of each saw kerf should fall on the line, 

wood, to make the surface smooth and flat. The saw-kerfs should go only halfway thru the 

When the oblique surfaces are finished on base. Use a chisel to remove the waste wood, 

each board, mark the length of the bases from If a good job has been done the uprights will 

the thin ends, and saw them off, squaring the just fit the grooves, 

ends. Trim the ends of the remaining pieces to Paper patterns will aid the workman to 



make them the proper length. 

The next job is to make the dado joints. 
Make a knife line ]A" from the big end of each 
base. Place one edge of the lower end of the 



decide upon a suitable outline for the top edge 
of the uprights. When a decision has been made 
mark the line on the wood and saw with the 
coping-saw. Sandpaper all surfaces except the 



upright pieces against these lines, and mark surfaces of the joints. It is very poor practice 

with the point of the knife where the other edge to use either file or sandpaper on the surfaces of 

of the upright meets the base. Make knife joints. 

lines square across the base at the points located Apply a first class finish with suitable stain 

in this way. Saw with the back-saw so that the and shellac. 

HOT DISH REST 

This project teaches the making of the cross- The making of the joints is the next step- 
lap joint. Make sure that the top, or face side is marked 

A piece of wood is procured %" Xi^t" X20" on each piece. Then measure i" from the ends 

and planed to the size after the method de- of the longer piece and cut knife lines square 

scribed on page 10. across the bottom side, opposite the face side. 



I' LATE 47 




1 1 4 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



Then take one of the short pieces and hold it in The joints should fit tightly, so that they stay 
the position it is to occupy with one edge against together by themselves. Round off the top 
the knife line. With the knife point mark where corners at the ends of each piece. When sand- 
the other edge comes on the board. Remove papering, work very little on the edges, as one is 
the short piece and square a knife line across the very apt to make the pieces too narrow for the 
long piece at the point located. Do the same joints if not extremely careful, 
thing for the other joint, using the second short Since this article is to be used on the dining 
piece to mark by. These lines may next be table it should be nicely finished. The most 
squared half way across the narrow edges. The practical finish would be obtained with raw 
marking gage is set to half the thickness of the linseed oil rubbed in with No. O sand paper and 
wood and a line is made on both edges of each polished off with soft shavings. The finish will 
piece parallel to the face side and between each not be hurt by the heat as would varnish or 
pair of knife lines. Saw inside the knife lines shellac. The ends of the pieces could be beauti- 
the waste wood with the chisel. It will be found fied if cut to a more pleasing outline than the 
very carefully with the back-saw and pare out simple one shown on the drawing. The pupil 
easier to pare out this wood if several saw cuts should cut out paper patterns for such an out- 
are made across it nearly down to the gage lines, line and submit them to the teacher for approval 
Pare from each edge — not all the way across the before attempting to apply them to the wood, 
wood. 

CORD WINDER 

The cord winder shown in the working draw- The finished article may be used to wind a 

ing gives the workman a chance to learn to kite string or for the clothes-line, fish-line, ot 

make the joint known as the cross-lap, the pieces of cord and twine saved at home, 

halved together, or the half-lap joint. First procure a strip of wood %"X2"Xi^". 



PLATE 48 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



Plane this piece of wood after the method 
described on page 10. 

Make sure that the face marks are on each 
of the pieces. Square a knife line across the 
longer piece 4^?" from the end. Place the edge 
of the shorter piece against this line and mark 
with the point of the knife where the opposite 
edge comes on the long piece. A second knife 
line squared across the piece at this point marks 



face sides with the marking gage set to half the 
thickness of the wood. With the knife cut a 
notch on the inner side of each knife line on the 
broad surfaces. This makes a place for the 
back-saw to start in and makes the saw-kerf 
come just within the knife lines. Several other 
cuts may be made between the knife lines to 
make it easier to chisel out the waste wood. 
Take care to cut only to the gage lines, and to 



off the exact width of the joint. In a similar chisel only half way across from each 
way the width of the joint may be marked on the of the board. If each step is carefully taken a 
shorter piece. One must take care to locate the perfect fitting joint should be made, 
joint in the middle of this piece, and on the The hole is easily located and bored, and the 
side opposite to the face side. These lines are corners trimmed as shown with the chisel. The 
then squared half way down on the edges of joint may then be glued and the surfaces sand- 
both pieces. Lines are made parallel to the papered. 

SKIRT MARKER 

The making of the mortise and tenon joint post long enough to include the piece that slides 

may be learned thru this project. First prepare on it. This strip may be planed to width and 

the base, planing it to size as indicated on thickness before it is cut in two to make the 

page 8. Do not chamfer the edges until after post and cross piece. (See page 10.) When all 

the joint has been cut. Procure the wood for the pieces have been planed to size the openings 



PLATE 49 



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ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



may be marked with the gage and knife. Bore 
out as much stock as possible before chiseling to 
the lines. Square a knife line around the post 
to mark for the shoulder of the joint. Gage on 
each side of the post for the sides of the tenon as 
dimensioned on the drawing. Saw across the 
sides of the post and chisel off the waste wood, 
making the tenon fit snugly into the mortise 
("the opening in the base). If care is taken in 



cutting, the post will stand solidly, and square 
to the base. The opening in the sliding piece is 
made in a similar manner to that in the base. 
Note that one end of this opening is inclined to 
fit the wedge. 

The remaining features are all shown clearly 
enough on the drawing for the workman to 
complete the project. The post is glued in the 
base. Finish with shellac. 



SPOOL REEL 



This project was originated by a boy to hold 
the spools of thread or carpet warp used by his 
mother in crocheting. 

The uprights are fastened to the base with 
housed dado joints. The rod for the spools is 
loose in the holes. 

To make the project procure two pieces of 
wood, one for the base, %" X-4/4" X %}4", and 
one for the uprights, 5^"X3>i"Xi2". Plane 
the first piece after the rules in Steps in Planing, 
page 8, and the second piece after the rules on 



page 10. Do not chamfer the edges of the base 
until after the joints have been made. 

The joint is marked on the base first. Square 
a knife line across the top side of the base, x /z" 
from each end. Stop these lines }i" from each 
edge, so that they will not overrun the joint and 
show after the work is finished. Stand one of 
the uprights on end with one of its edges against 
one of the knife lines. With the point of the 
knife mark where the other edge falls on the 
base. At this point square another line across 



PLATE CO 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORKING PROJECTS 



the base similar to the others. Then the width 
of the dado will be marked on the base and it 
will be exactly equal to the thickness of the 
upright that is to fit into it. Repeat the process 
for the second joint. It would be well to mark 
these A and B, or in some similar way, so that 
they will not be confused later. Set the gage 
at $4" and gage from each edge of the board so 
as to make a line between the two knife lines of 
each joint. This marks the length of each dado. 
To chisel out the waste wood use a i" chisel to 
cut across the grain of the wood, just inside, and 
parallel to the knife lines. Use a mallet to 
drive the chisel. The second cuts may be made 
with the chisel edge directly in the knife lines, 
and with the flat side of the chisel next to the 
lines. The reason for doing this is that the 
chisel crowds the wood to each side when it is 
driven in. The first cut in the waste makes an 
opening into which the wood is crowded when 
the second cut is made on the line. This process 



prevents the chisel from making the dado too 
wide. The wood between the chisel cuts is 
removed with a %" chisel. Do not try to 
remove all the wood with the first cut of the 
chisel. About }/$," is enough to expect to remove 
before cutting again with the wider chisel across 
the grain. Proceeding in this way the workman 
will soon remove the waste wood to the proper 
depth. The sides of the dado should be clean 
cut and square to the top side of the base. The 
uprights may then be marked out to fit the 
dadoes. Use the back-saw to remove the waste 
wood in the corners of the uprights. When 
gluing together make sure that the uprights 
are square to the base. The outline of the 
upright pieces could be made more beautiful if 
modelled to pleasing curves. The outline may 
be designed by the individual workman. All 
the minor details are shown clearly on the 
working drawing. Apply four coats of shellac, 
and rub down smooth with pumice and oil. 



INDEX 



Assembling four-sided frame 22-28 

Awl, marking with 16 



Back rest, Plate 8 28 

Bill of material 74 

Bird feeding stand, Plate 31 78 

Blind nailing 42 

Book stall, Plate 41 100 

Book supports, Plate 46 no 

Boot-blacking stand, Plate 14 40 

Boring 44, 48, 50, 65 

for screws 5 4 

for bracket 50 

with auger bit 18,30,32,43,44,46 

Box bottom, fitting 72-76 

Broom holder, Plate 15 44 

Butt joint. .37, 39, 49, 57, 61, 63, 65, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77, 
79.81,91,93,95,97,99, 109 
C 

Chiseling across the grain 87 

Chiseling around a corner 66 

Clock shelf, Plate 23 60 

Clothes-line reel, Plate 18 50 

Contents 4 



Cord Winder, Plate 48 

Cross-lap joint, making 11 

Cutting board, Plate 10 



114 

-116 

32 



I) 

Dado joint 107-112 

Dado joint, housed 118 

Designing outlines -54, 68, 82 

Dish drainer, Plate 7 26 

Door stop, Plate 21 56 

Dovetail joint 77 

Doweljoint 31, 51, 53 



Emery cloth, cutting to size 18 



Fastening an object on the wall 66, 100 

Fish-line reel, Plate 4 20 

Fitting bottom to box 72 

Footstool, Plate 12 36 



Gain joint 41, 77, IOI 

Garden stake, Plate <; 22 

Glue joint, rubbed 108 

Gouging across grain 104 



H 

Hinges, locating and fitting 4 2 

Hot dish Rest, Plate 47 112 

Housed dado joint 118 

I 

Ink stand, Plate 38 95 

Ink stand and stationery holder, Plate 44 107 

J 

Joints 

Butt joint 77 

Cross lap 1 1 2-1 16 

Dado 112 

Dowel 5 2 

Gain, or rabbet 41, 77, 101 

Housed dado 118 

Mortise and tenon n 8 

Dovetail 77 

K 

Key board, Plate 2 16 

Knife strop, Plate 3 18 

L 

Laundry stick, Plate 22 58 

Letter holder, Plate 37 92 

Letter tray, Plate 30 76 



M 

Marking tor holes in duplicate pieces 30, 50 

Match striker, Plate 23 82 

Milk bottle Holder, Plate 27 70 

Miter bench-hook, Plate 13 38 

Mortise-and-tenon joint 118 

N 

Nailing a box 72 

Nailing thru hard wood 50 

Necktie rack, Plate 39 96 

o 

Oblique planing 56—58 

Outlines, method of designing 34, 68, 82 



Pail stand, Plate 6 

Paint, application of 

Pen and ink stand, Plate 36 

Pen and pencil holder, Plate 16 , 

Pen and Pencil Rest, Plate 43 

Pencil pointer, Plate I 

Planing to dimensions 

Planing, steps in 

I. Two dimensions 

II. Three dimensions 

III. Two long pieces of the same thickness, width 



24 
62 
90 
46 
104 
'4 

6 



I2 3 



and length, or the same thickness and 

length 'i 

IV. Two or more short pieces of the same 

thickness and width 10 

V. Three or more long and narrow pieces of the 

same thickness and similar lengths 11 

VI. Two pairs of pieces of medium length 13 

Planing, oblique 56—58 

Planing, shearing cut 1 10 

Plant label, Plate 5 22 

Poultry feeder, Plate 29 74 

R 

Rolling blotter, Plate 35 87 

Rubbed glue joint ic8 

S 

Sandpaper, cutting to size 1 4, 82 

Safety match-box stand, Plate 42 102 

Sewingstand,Plateg .... 31 

Sewing stand, Plate 32 . ... 80 

Shearing cut with plane no 

Shoe-polishing stand, Plate 24 62 



Skirt marker, Plate 49 116 

Spool reel, Plate 50 118 

Studding, locating in wall 66, 100 

Suggestions for outlines. . 19, 21, 25, 33, 35, 37, 41, 49, 61, 

69, 71, 8i, 83, 89, 91,93,95,97, 99, 101, 107, 109, 111 

Suit hanger, Plate 34 84 

T 

Telephone bracket, Plate 26 67 

Tooth brush rack, Plate 17. 48 

Towel stand, Plate 19 52 

Towel rack, Plate 25 64 

Tray for table silver, Plate 28 72 

Trellis, Plate 5 22 

Trousers hanger, Plate 20 54 

U 

Lpholstenng stool top -;6 

\Y 

Waste-paper basket, Plate 45 108 

WhKk-broom Holder, Plate 40 98 

Writing board, Plate 11 54 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 850 



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